Hongyin Mountain House is the attraction that brought Qianlong back so often. It is huge by any standard of architecture from the period. The estate is actually the combination of the former Xiuye Garden and the Xiaoying Garden, which was once home to Shen Shou, then known as the embroidery princess south of the Yangtze Delta.
The huge courtyard just inside the entrance was where Qianlong sat to watch Peking operas on the stage above. Scaled down versions of opera are presented karaoke style throughout the day, so most visitors have a chance to observe the ancient entertainment before setting out on a tour of the extensive house and gardens.
Yan's Garden is perhaps the most attractive scenic delight among the four houses. The garden is centred upon a lake that meanders through the grounds. It is lined with trees and its amazing ornamental West Lake Rockery that is unlike any other decorative rockery in the world. Former home to Yan Jiagan, who hailed from China's Taiwan Province, Yan's Garden was designed in the classic style on its one-plus hectare setting by Liu Dunzhen, perhaps the most famous architect of his time. A large magnolia tree in the garden was reputedly planted by Emperor Qianlong during one of his many visits to the area.
It's easy to see that the old mansions were built along the same lines, so once you've seen a couple of them your attention may wander. The real treasures are the gardens, where imagination and creativity were given free rein. It is hard to imagine now the scope of thoughtfulness and precision that went into their design, and each one is worth a look.
The canal does not add much charm to the surroundings. No boats ply the exceptionally dirty water and vendors along the way offer much the same in the way of tourist gewgaws as found in any tourist area, except maybe on a smaller scale. There are several teahouses and eating establishments which appear interesting but on the whole offer nothing to write home about.
